Prince of Darkness Patchouli

Pogostemon Cablin


Plant native to tropical Asia, particularly Indonesia and Malaysia. It is also cultivated in many other regions: China, Philippines, India, Seychelles, Madagascar, South America…


The name patchouli appeared at the beginning of the 19th century and is probably a combination of the terms patch (green) and ilai (leaves), or leaf (in English). It is also said to come from the Tamil paccilai meaning green leaf.



Patchouli is a plant that looks very much like a large shrub about one metre tall with leaves resembling those of the mint.


The fresh plant almost doesn’t smell, it gives off its scent when the leaves are left to dry for about 6 days, preferably in the shade to prevent them from fermenting.



Once distilled with water vapor for about 8 hours, the essential oil must age for several months in barrels to lose its bitterness.


Widely used in the formulation of perfumes, patchouli has a powerful smell, at the same time woody, darkness, earthy and dry with smoky accents. Only its amber color is indicative of the warmth it contains.



Botanical Perfumery

Prince of Darkness Patchouli

Patchouli: The pure fragrance obtained from the green leaves of the plant by steam / co2 distillation method is intense, dark masculine and has an ethereal dark black mysterious aroma as well as woody, sweet, rhizome green, damp mold wet earth nuances, which vary according to the distillation quality.



Patchouli According to some perfumeur interpretations, it is depicted that it has aspects reminiscent of the smell of earth after the rain, which reminds of death.


Also

Patchouli smell is, for many people in perfumery a love-it-or-hate ingredient that still evokes a lot of prejudice.



Patchouli can be reminiscent of a cork or an overripe apple, some find it smells like mushrooms, cellars and mould.

Many perfumers have told me that they can detect a hint of cocoa in good quality patchouli.


Patchouli is the most important raw material in perfumery and is used in both men's and women's fragrances.

Patchouli has a woody note that combines beautifully with other woody notes, such as vetiver, sandalwood or cedar.

Patchouli oils, which are obtained in the Indonesian Aceh Barat region and have extremely rounded lines that vary according to the distle method it is processed, have a very rich aroma reminiscent of sweet, darkness, chocolate vanilla earthen patchouli.





What is PA : Natural ingredient Patchouli alcohol (PA), which is a tricyclic sesquiterpene, is the main chemical component of patchouli oil and contributes to the pungent odor of the oil. At the same time, PA obtained by synthesis is a widely applied ingredient in the perfume industry.


Patchouli PA offers a wide range of uses as immunomodulator, anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, antitumor, antimicrobial, insecticidal, antiatherogenic, antiemetic, whitening and soothing, especially in decorative cosmetics, fragrances, shampoo, candles, toilet soaps as well as household cleaners and detergents. It has also been used in non-cosmetic products.


Its pure oil is a plant that is frequently used as an antimicrobial and insecticide / insect repellent in the field of alternative herbal medicine.


In nature, PA is mainly concentrated in the essential oil of Pogostemon cablin and is directly related to the quality of patchouli oil, in other words, lab in patchouli. If the PA rate is 30%, the lowest quality, the highest rate, is lab. PA 48.8% is considered the highest quality most expensive precious patchouli oil.


In order to obtain the best quality natural patchouli oil and the oil with the highest PA value, sensitive climatic conditions such as rested soil and optimum temperature and humidity are only obtained in indonesia, depending on the geographical features.


Patchouli oil is generally obtained by steam distillation and co2 distilled distillation techniques, and a higher quality perfume oil is obtained by containing much richer PA component compared to co2 distilled steam distilled.


Also The shelf life of patchouli oil is more than 20 years



Approximately 20-25 ml of pure fragrant oil is obtained from 1 kg of patchouli leaves for use in perfumes.


Blend Well With:

Agarwood, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Geranium, Clove Bud, Lavender, Rose, Neroli, Cassia, Bergamot, Myrrh, Clary Sage, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Lemon, Frankincense, Orange, Tangerine, Lime, Palmarosa, Cinnamon Bark.


Patchouli perfumes:

Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

Etro Patchouly

Givenchy Very Irresistible L’Intense

Gucci Gucci by Gucci

Jovoy Psychédelique

Cartier L’Heure Defendue VII

Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli

L’Artisan Parfumeur Patch

Chloé L’Eau de Chloé

The Body Shop Patchouli

Thierry Mugler Angel

Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb


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